Having stalked @wishbonebrixton’s Twitter feed for several months, we were so keen to feast on the free-range fowl we even braved the scrum of the first Friday night. Scrum it certainly was – the upstairs hadn’t opened yet and we were packed in wing to wing, but service struck just the right balance, and exceptional brandy sours and punchy Czech lagers made the wait for a table pass in a gentle alcoholic haze. A soundtrack of 90s hip hop added a certain something to the occasion too.

We had Korean fried wings which were herb fragrant down to the bone, zingy juicy Thai style-thighs with shallots and mint, and Buffalo wings which were delicious, but could have been hotter, though that is personal of course. A ‘hot mess’ of fries, cheese, pickle strips and jalapeno slices is also recommended if you think two millimetres of chilli oil left at the bottom is the mark of a good dish (and I do).  I will be going back for the ‘salt and pepa’ thighs, deep-fried mac and cheese, and classic fried chicken.

Of course the place was still finding its feet. You can’t visit a restaurant two days in and complain that they don’t have everything on the menu, or that staff are still wrangling with the till system. What we ate and drank was largely brilliant, the staff are clearly experienced. Within a short space of time, the operation will be as slick as the design, and Wishbone will have assumed its place on the vibrant and brilliant value scene at Brixton Market.